If you’re planning to build a house from scratch, a bare piece of land, one of the most important documents you’ll ever receive from your contractor is the Bill of Quantities, or BOQ.
Think of it as the complete shopping list and work plan for your entire house. Every item on the BOQ represents a specific piece of work that needs to happen for your house to be functional, safe, and legally compliant. If something is missing from the BOQ, it either means your contractor forgot it, didn’t plan for it. Or worse, they’re planning to charge you for it later as a “variation.”
This guide is for you — the homeowner, the OFW planning your dream home, the family deciding to build instead of buy. We want you to understand what to expect and why contractors charge the way they charge. At the same time, if you’re a contractor or builder reading this, we hope this gives your clients a clearer picture so you spend less time explaining and more time building.
Let’s go through every trade, one by one.
Who is this for? This guide is for homeowners planning to build a house from scratch in the Philippines — from a bare piece of land. It is also useful for contractors who want their clients to understand the full scope of work before signing a contract. Every trade listed here represents real work that costs real money. Nothing here is padding.
A
Preliminaries
Everything that needs to happen before the first concrete is poured
This section is often the most misunderstood by homeowners. Preliminaries are not “soft costs” you can skip — they are the legal, logistical, and safety foundation of your entire project. A contractor who doesn’t include these in the BOQ is either planning to add them later or cutting dangerous corners.
1
Permits and Clearances
Building permit, electrical permit, sanitary permit, and barangay clearance. Required by law before any construction begins. Costs vary per municipality — budget ₱20,000–₱100,000 depending on house size and location.
2
Site Preparation and Mobilization
Moving equipment, tools, and materials to your lot. Clearing existing vegetation, debris, or old structures. This is the first physical work on your property.
3
Surveying and Geotechnical Testing
A licensed geodetic engineer surveys your lot boundaries. Soil testing determines foundation type — critical for areas near rivers, reclaimed land, or soft soil zones. Don’t skip this. A wrong foundation costs far more to fix later.
4
Site Office and Storage
Temporary structure for the foreman’s office, material storage, and tool lockup. Protects your materials from weather and theft during construction.
5
Temporary Facilities
Temporary water supply, electrical connections for power tools, and temporary comfort rooms for workers. Yes, your laborers need a toilet on-site — this is required under DOLE labor standards.
6
Perimeter Protection
Plywood or metal sheet fencing around the construction site. Keeps unauthorized people out, protects neighbors from debris, and is often required by the LGU.
7
Project Supervision
The Project Engineer or Foreman who oversees daily operations. This is a legitimate cost — good supervision prevents mistakes that are expensive to fix. Supervision is typically 5–10% of total project cost.
8
Logistics and Delivery
Hauling materials from supplier to site. Especially significant for provincial locations — delivery charges can add 5–15% to material costs depending on distance.
Homeowner tip: Always ask your contractor to show you the actual permit receipts. Permits are paid to the government — not to the contractor. Any contractor who charges you for permits but can’t show you official OR receipts is a red flag.
B
Division 03 — Concrete
The structural skeleton of your house
Concrete work is typically the single largest cost item in a Filipino house. It covers everything that holds your house up. Cutting costs here is the riskiest thing you can do — this is not where you save money.
1
Formworks
Temporary molds (usually plywood and lumber) that shape wet concrete into beams, columns, slabs, and footings. Removed after concrete cures. Formwork is reusable across multiple pours — a good contractor tracks and reuses them efficiently.
2
Reinforcement Bars (Rebar)
Steel bars (deformed bars, Grade 40 or Grade 60) embedded in concrete to give it tensile strength. Your structural engineer specifies the size, spacing, and configuration — this must follow the approved structural plans exactly, not be changed to save money.
3
Structural Concrete
The actual concrete mix poured into the formworks — foundations, footings, columns, beams, and floor slabs. Specified by compressive strength (PSI or MPa). Residential projects typically use 3,000 PSI (20.7 MPa) for slabs and 4,000 PSI (27.6 MPa) for columns.
Homeowner tip: Ask for cylinder test results on your concrete. This is a simple test that confirms the concrete your contractor poured actually meets the specified strength. Reputable contractors do this as standard practice.
C
Division 04 — Masonry
Your walls — what separates inside from outside
Masonry is laying hollow blocks (CHB) with mortar to build your walls. It sounds simple but the quality of workmanship here affects everything from water resistance to acoustic privacy to how well your finishes stick.
1
Exterior Walls
The outer walls of your house. Usually 6-inch CHB (150mm) for structural integrity and weather resistance. These walls face rain, wind, and direct sunlight — quality of laying and mortar mix matters significantly here.
2
Interior Walls
The walls that divide rooms inside your house. Can use 4-inch CHB (100mm) for non-load-bearing partitions. Bathroom walls sometimes use a different specification for moisture resistance.
3
Lintel Beams and Stiffener Columns
Small reinforced concrete beams above door and window openings (lintels) and vertical concrete columns within walls (stiffeners). These tie your masonry walls to your structural frame — critical for earthquake resistance. Never skip these.
Homeowner tip: In the Philippines, we are in an earthquake and typhoon zone. Stiffener columns and lintel beams are not optional extras — they are required under the National Structural Code of the Philippines (NSCP). If your BOQ doesn’t include them, ask why.
D
Division 05 — Metals
Steel roofing frames, fabricated items, and railings
Metal works covers everything structural and decorative made from steel, aluminum, or other metals — excluding the reinforcement bars in your concrete (those are in Division 03).
1
Roof Framing
The steel trusses, purlins, and ridge beams that support your roofing sheets. Can be light-gauge steel (common in residential) or structural steel sections for wider spans. The roof framing must be designed to handle wind uplift — especially important in typhoon-prone areas.
2
Metal Fabrication (Accu Louvers, Gratings, Aluminum)
Custom fabricated items like window grilles, ventilation louvers, drainage gratings, and aluminum cladding panels. These are usually custom-made to your design specifications.
3
Metal Railings
Steel or aluminum railings for stairs, balconies, and roof decks. Required by the National Building Code for any floor level more than 1 meter above the ground.
E
Division 06 — Wood, Plastics, and Composites
Wooden stairs and railings
For houses with a second floor or elevated ground floor, stairs are a significant carpentry cost item. Wood species, railing design, and baluster spacing all affect both cost and appearance.
1
Wood Stairs
Stair treads, risers, stringers, and nosing. Common species used in the Philippines include Tanguile, Narra, and Mahogany. Engineered wood and composite materials are increasingly popular for cost and durability.
2
Wood Railings
Handrails and balusters along the stairs. These are a design feature as much as a safety requirement — budget varies widely depending on species and design complexity.
F
Division 07 — Thermal and Moisture Protection
Keeping water out and heat manageable
The Philippines has a tropical climate with heavy monsoon rains. Waterproofing is not a luxury — it is essential. Water damage from poor waterproofing is one of the most common and most expensive problems in Filipino homes, often showing up years after construction when the original contractor is long gone.
1
Dampproofing and Waterproofing
Applied to exterior walls below grade, bathroom walls, roof decks, and concrete slabs on grade. Products include crystalline waterproofing, cementitious coatings, membrane systems, and elastomeric sealants. Each area of your house has a different waterproofing requirement — a good contractor specifies this per area in the BOQ.
2
Roof Insulation and Shingles
Insulation boards or foil-faced reflective insulation installed under the roofing sheets/shingles to reduce heat gain. In a tropical country, these are the items can significantly reduce air conditioning costs for the life of your house.
Homeowner tip: If your BOQ has no waterproofing line items at all, that is a serious warning sign. Ask your contractor specifically where waterproofing is applied and what product is being used. The cheapest waterproofing products fail within 2–3 years in Philippine weather conditions.
G
Division 08 — Openings
Doors, windows, hardware, and glass
Everything that opens and closes — and everything that covers a hole in your wall. This section has a huge range of cost depending on material quality. Doors and windows are also a major security consideration — good hardware matters.
1
Wood Doors
Solid or hollow-core flush doors, panel doors, or custom design. Includes door frames (jambs). Exterior doors should be solid core for security. Interior doors can be hollow core to reduce cost.
2
Plastic Doors
uPVC doors typically used for bathrooms, laundry areas, and utility spaces. Moisture-resistant, low maintenance, and generally more affordable than wood for wet areas.
3
Windows
Aluminum sliding windows, casement windows, or jalousie windows. Includes screens if specified. Window size and placement affect both ventilation and natural lighting — discuss this thoroughly with your architect before finalizing.
4
Hardware
Locksets, hinges, door closers, door stops, and handles for every door in your house. Hardware quality is often underestimated — cheap locksets fail within 1–2 years. Budget properly for this.
5
Glazing
Glass panels for windows, glass doors, and fixed glass walls. Specifications include glass thickness, type (clear, tinted, tempered, laminated), and framing system. Tempered glass is required by code in any opening less than 18 inches from the floor.
H
Division 09 — Finishes
What your house actually looks like when it’s done
Finishes are everything that covers the raw concrete, masonry, and framing. This is where most of the visible quality of your house comes from — and where homeowners often make the mistake of cutting costs to save money during construction, only to regret it later.
1
Cement Plastering
The base coat applied over masonry walls to create a smooth, level surface for paint or tiles. Interior and exterior plastering are separate line items because they use different mixes and have different surface preparation requirements.
2
Ceiling Board
The finished ceiling surface — typically fiber cement board, gypsum board, or PVC panels mounted on metal furring. Includes the furring system and all fasteners. Fire-rated ceiling boards are recommended especially in kitchen areas.
3
Tiling
Floor tiles and wall tiles for bathrooms, kitchen, living areas, and outdoor areas. Includes adhesive, grout, tile trim, and labor. Tile size, pattern, and species affect both material cost and labor cost significantly.
4
Wood Flooring
Engineered wood, solid hardwood, or laminate flooring for bedrooms or living areas where tiles are not used. Includes underlayment and installation. Wood flooring requires a clean, level, and dry subfloor — any moisture issue must be resolved first.
5
Interior Acrylic Latex Paint
Paint for interior walls. A complete paint system includes primer, putty, and at least two finish coats. Cutting to one coat saves money upfront but results in uneven color and shorter lifespan.
6
Interior Ceiling Painting
Separate from wall painting because ceilings often require a different sheen level (flat/matte) and overhead application requires different labor rates.
7
Exterior Ceiling Painting
Covered areas outside the house — carport ceilings, balcony ceilings, lanai ceilings. Requires weather-resistant paint formulation.
8
Exterior Elastomeric Paint Finish
The outer paint system for your exterior walls. Elastomeric paint is flexible, crack-bridging, and water-resistant — essential for Philippine weather. This is not the same as regular exterior latex paint and should not be substituted.
I
Division 10 — Specialties
Bathroom accessories and glass partitions
Small items that are easy to forget in a BOQ but annoying and expensive to add after the fact — especially when tiling is already done.
1
Toilet, Bath, and Laundry Accessories
Towel bars, toilet paper holders, soap dishes, robe hooks, mirrors, and laundry area fittings. Should be specified before tiling begins so the blocking (backing boards) can be installed in the right locations.
2
Tempered Glass Shower Partition
The glass enclosure for your shower area. Frameless systems are common, though thickness and framing style vary by design. Requires precise installation on a level, waterproofed floor — coordinate this with your tiler and waterproofing contractor.
J
Division 12 — Furnishings
Built-in cabinets and countertops
Built-in caseworks are the kitchen cabinets, bedroom wardrobes, and utility shelves that are custom-made for your specific space. Unlike furniture you can move, built-ins are part of your house construction scope.
1
Caseworks
Kitchen base and wall cabinets, bedroom closets, utility room shelving. Material options include marine plywood with laminate, PVC board, or solid wood — each at very different price points. Define the material clearly in your BOQ to avoid disputes.
2
Countertops
Kitchen countertops and bathroom vanity tops. Common materials: granite, engineered stone, stainless steel, or tiles. Granite and engineered stone require a template after cabinets are installed — plan the schedule accordingly.
K
Division 22 — Plumbing
Everything water-related — coming in and going out
Plumbing is one of the most complex trades in your house — and one of the most expensive to fix after construction is done. Once walls are tiled and floors are finished, accessing a leaking pipe means demolition. This is not where you cut corners or allow shortcuts.
1
Meter and Gauge
The main water meter connection from the local utility (LWUA, MWSS, or local water district). Includes the meter box, gate valve, and pressure gauge. Coordinate with your water district for connection requirements.
2
Duty Valves
Main shut-off valves that allow you to isolate sections of your water system for repairs. Every bathroom, kitchen, and water heater connection should have its own isolation valve. This is a sign of quality plumbing work.
3
Testing and Commissioning
Pressure testing of all supply lines before walls are closed. This is how leaks are found before tiles go on. Any plumber who skips this is leaving you with risk you can’t see.
4
Cold Water Line
The main supply piping that distributes cold water to all fixtures — bathrooms, kitchen, laundry, outdoor hose bibs. Typically PPR (polypropylene random) or uPVC pipe in residential projects.
5
Hot Water Line
Supply piping from the water heater to bathrooms and kitchen sink. If your design includes a central water heater (as opposed to individual instant heaters per fixture), this is a separate pipe run that must be planned from the start.
6
Fixtures to Septic Tank
The drainage piping from all toilets and floor drains to your septic tank. This is the sanitary drain line — must maintain proper slope throughout to prevent clogging.
7
Septic Tank to Sewer Line
The effluent line from your septic tank to the public sewer or to a leach field. Required connection by most LGUs. Not the same as the drainage line from your house to the tank.
8
Vent Line
Pipes that extend from your drainage system up through the roof to atmosphere. Venting prevents siphoning of fixture traps and eliminates sewer gas from entering your house. Often missing in low-cost construction — and the reason why drains gurgle and smell.
9
Facility Septic Tank
The septic tank itself — sized based on the number of bedrooms and expected occupancy. Must be designed and constructed per the Philippine Sanitation Code. Location matters: it must be accessible for desludging and positioned away from water sources.
10
Storm Line
The drainage system for rainwater from roof gutters, floor drains in open areas, and surface water around the house. Separate from the sanitary drain — never connect your roof drains to your septic tank system.
11
Rainwater Storage Tank
If your design includes rainwater harvesting — a storage tank (typically polyethylene or concrete cistern) that collects roof runoff for reuse in flushing toilets or garden irrigation.
12
Plumbing Fixtures
The actual faucets, shower heads, water closets, lavatories, kitchen sinks, and bidets. Brand and quality specifications must be in the BOQ — “similar quality” is not a specification. Agree on the brand and model before signing.
Homeowner tip: Ask your contractor to do a water pressure test on all supply lines before any wall tiles are installed. A simple pressure gauge test costs almost nothing and can save you from discovering a leak behind finished tiles two years later.
L
Division 23 — HVAC
Heating, Ventilating, and Air Conditioning
Most small residential houses in the Philippines use window-type or split-type aircon units that are purchased and installed separately from the main construction. However, for larger homes, commercial-grade residences, or houses designed with central air conditioning, HVAC becomes its own major scope of work.
1
Testing, Adjusting, and Balancing for HVAC
Commissioning of the complete HVAC system to verify it operates within design parameters. Required for central air systems.
2
HVAC Piping Insulation
Insulation wrap around refrigerant lines and chilled water pipes to prevent condensation and heat gain.
3
HVAC Pipings and Pumps
Refrigerant piping, condensate drain lines, and chilled water distribution system where applicable.
4
HVAC Ducts and Casings
Sheet metal ductwork for air distribution in ducted systems. Includes diffusers, registers, and return air grilles.
5
HVAC Fans
Exhaust fans for bathrooms, kitchen range hoods, and fresh air supply fans. Even houses without central air conditioning need proper mechanical ventilation in bathrooms and kitchen.
M
Division 26 — Electrical
Power for your entire house
Electrical work must be done by a licensed Electrical Engineer (PEE) or Master Electrician. Poor electrical work is the leading cause of house fires in the Philippines. This is the section where cheapening out has the most potentially fatal consequences.
1
Grounding and Bonding
The grounding system for your entire electrical installation — grounding rods, bonding conductors, and grounding of all metal enclosures. Protects people and equipment from electrical faults. Required by the Philippine Electrical Code.
2
Low Voltage Electrical Power Conductors and Cables (THHN/THWN)
The actual wiring — copper conductors in THHN or THWN insulation, sized per circuit load. Wire gauge must match the circuit breaker rating. Undersized wire is a fire hazard.
3
Raceway and Boxes
Conduit (PVC or rigid metal) and junction boxes that protect and route the wiring inside your walls and ceilings. All wiring must be inside conduit — exposed wire stapled to walls is not acceptable and is a building code violation.
4
Testing and Commissioning of Electrical Systems
Insulation resistance testing, circuit continuity testing, and load testing before connection to the utility. Required before MERALCO or your local distribution utility will connect your service entrance.
5
Switchboards and Panelboards
Your main panel board (circuit breaker panel) and any sub-panels. Must be sized for your total load and have room for future expansion. Specify the number of circuits, amperage rating, and brand.
6
Electricity Metering
The service entrance, metering socket, and connection to the distribution utility. Coordinate with MERALCO or your local utility for requirements — they have specific standards for the meter base and service entrance.
7
Wiring Devices (Switches and Outlets)
All the switches and outlets you see on your walls. Specify the brand and type in the BOQ — there is a significant quality and price difference between brands. GFCI outlets are required in wet areas (bathrooms, kitchen, outdoor).
8
Low Voltage Circuit Protective Devices
Individual circuit breakers for each circuit in your panel. Brand matters — stick to reputable brands (Schneider, ABB, Siemens, or equivalent) and avoid counterfeit breakers, which are unfortunately common in the Philippines.
9
Interior Lighting
Light fixtures for all interior spaces — specified by type (LED downlight, surface mount, pendant, etc.), wattage, and color temperature. Includes all installation hardware. Lighting layout should be coordinated with your interior design plan.
Homeowner tip: Before your contractor closes the ceilings and walls, ask for a complete set of as-built electrical drawings showing exactly where every conduit, junction box, and wire run is located. You will need this if you ever need to add an outlet or trace a fault in the future.
N
Division 27 — Communications
Data, voice, cable TV, and audio-video systems
Often treated as an afterthought, communications rough-in work (conduits and pull boxes) needs to happen during construction — before walls are closed. Adding data outlets after the fact means chasing concrete and patching tiles.
1
Grounding and Bonding
Separate grounding system for communications equipment to prevent interference and protect against lightning-induced surges.
2
Voice and Data Communications
CAT6 or CAT6A ethernet cabling for wired internet connections, telephone lines, and data outlets. Even if you plan to use WiFi exclusively, having wired data outlets in key locations (home office, living room, main bedroom) future-proofs your house.
3
Audio-Video Communications and CATV System
Coaxial cable runs for cable TV, satellite antenna connections, and speaker wiring for built-in audio systems. Plan the locations of TV outlets and ceiling speaker rough-ins before walls are closed.
O
Division 28 — Electronic Safety and Security
Alarms, detection systems, and CCTV
Security systems are increasingly standard in Philippine residential construction. Like communications, the conduit rough-in must happen during construction — the devices can be added later, but the pathways need to be planned from the start.
1
Electronic Detection and Alarm
Smoke detectors, fire alarm systems, burglar alarm systems, and intercom systems. Conduit runs and device locations should be marked on your architectural plans before construction begins. CCTV camera locations and cable routes also need to be pre-planned.
P
Division 31 — Earthworks
What happens to the ground before your foundation goes in
If you’re building on a bare lot, earthworks is where construction physically begins. The cost varies enormously depending on your lot’s existing condition — flat and clean versus sloped, filled, or with existing vegetation and old structures.
1
Clearing and Grubbing
Removing trees, roots, stumps, vegetation, and surface debris from the building footprint. Stump removal is often quoted separately — large stumps require equipment and take time.
2
Structural Excavation
Digging for footings, foundation walls, grade beams, and underground utility trenches. Volume is measured in cubic meters. Rock or hard material in the ground significantly increases this cost.
3
Gravel Bedding
A layer of compacted gravel under your floor slab that provides drainage, a stable base, and a capillary break against ground moisture. Typically 100mm (4 inches) thick.
4
Well Compacted Granular Fill from Excavation
Using excavated material to backfill around foundations and under floor slabs. Compaction is critical — poorly compacted fill settles over time and can crack your slab and floor tiles.
5
Hauling from Excavation (Disposal)
Excess excavated material that cannot be reused on-site must be hauled away. Cost depends on volume and disposal site distance. Some contractors charge by the truckload — confirm the unit before signing.
6
Soil Poisoning
Pre-construction termite treatment applied to the soil under and around your foundation before the slab is poured. This is the most effective form of termite control — far better than post-construction treatment. Required by the National Building Code for areas with known termite activity.
Homeowner tip: Soil poisoning is one of the most commonly skipped items in low-cost construction. Termite damage to wood members, furniture, and structural elements costs far more to repair than the original treatment. Insist on it being in your BOQ and ask for the treatment certificate from a licensed pest control operator.
Q
Division 32 — Exterior Improvements
Your lot outside the house itself
Once the house is built, the area outside still needs attention. Landscaping and perimeter fencing complete the property and are often left out of initial BOQs — then added as expensive variations later. Include them from the start.
1
Turf Including Surface Preparation
Lawn installation — grading and leveling the ground, adding topsoil where needed, and laying Carabao grass, Bermuda grass, or other varieties. Includes initial watering and establishment. Lawn prep often reveals drainage problems that need to be addressed before grass is laid.
2
Concrete Fence
CHB perimeter wall — height depends on your property, LGU regulations, and preference. Includes footing, CHB, plastering, and paint. Check with your LGU for fence height restrictions in your area — some subdivisions and barangays have specific rules.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is a Bill of Quantities (BOQ) and why do I need one? ▼
A BOQ is a detailed list of all the materials, labor, and work items needed to build your house, with quantities and unit costs for each. You need one because it is the basis for your contract with your contractor, your budget planning, and your protection against surprise charges. Without a BOQ, “what’s included” is just a verbal promise.
What happens if an item is missing from my contractor’s BOQ? ▼
Missing items become variation orders — additional charges during construction. This is the most common source of conflict between homeowners and contractors in the Philippines. The fix is to compare your contractor’s BOQ against a complete list like this one before signing anything. Every missing item is a future bill.
Should I get BOQs from multiple contractors and compare them? ▼
Yes — always get at least 3 quotes. But don’t just compare the total number. Compare item by item. A lower total price often means items are missing, not that the contractor is more efficient. The most dangerous BOQ is the one that’s suspiciously cheap because half the work isn’t listed.
Do I need all of these divisions for a small house? ▼
Not necessarily. HVAC (Division 23) is optional for small houses using individual aircon units. Division 27 (Communications) scope depends on your connectivity needs. Division 12 (Furnishings) depends on whether built-in cabinets are in scope. But Divisions A through H, K, M, P, and Q are essentially universal for any house built on a bare lot in the Philippines.
Who prepares the BOQ — the contractor or the architect? ▼
Both. Your architect prepares the design plans and specifications. A quantity surveyor or estimator (sometimes in-house with the contractor) prepares the BOQ based on those plans. For design-and-build contractors, both functions are handled by the same firm. For owner-built projects, you may need to hire a separate quantity surveyor to prepare and verify the BOQ.
Useful tools and references
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